![]() I'm afraid I can't remember exactly where I drilled the hole since I did it about six years ago, but from memory it was simply inline with the bottom bearing. I lubricated my motor again a couple of months ago when I had to remove the centre console for other reasons, and I used the thin tube to pass the WD-40 through the 3mm hole that I had previously drilled. Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't lubricate the camshafts with the stuff, but there isn't a lot of load on the motor and I have lots of faith in WD-40. If you have an alternative preference, fine, but be careful with silicon spray because you don't want to coat the brushes nearby with an insulation of silicon. I think it's the same mix as the USA product (and I know it is your invention), but on a UK tin it states 'cleans and lubricates'. It's been a few years and still works just fine, though I can't gaurentee it'll go forever. ![]() My fan was frozen solid for who knows how many years before I got the car.ĭid both holes as listed above, and with just a un-electrically assisted turn by finger every spring to make sure it hasn't stiffened up again, it'll spin freely enough to where the air coming through the cowl duct when moving at 50+mph will spin it fast enough to get the indicator in the speedo gauge to illuminate if the climate control settings aren't set with the right arm full down. Silocone types seem to work 'faster' AFA getting things moving again, but lithium based tend to last longer as they are more viscous and thus less subject to slinging off as the motor spins. Or, lube the upper through the hole drilled in the fan and the lower by feeding the spray tube up through the previously mentioned drain hole in the bottom of the box and shooting as up and toward center as you can manage to get the thing to point. (what, you thought someone actually took the time to balance that plastic part at the factory at some point during casting and assembly, then again after it was pressed onto the shaft?)Ī 1/8" hole can be drilled into the lower portion of the fan straight in from the opening in the heat duct when it's set to 'floor' only to allow (almost) direct lube of the upper motor bushing, which depending on viscosity of the lube used, can drip down to the lower bushing lubing it too. If used repetedly for 'lube' on brass or bronze bushings (like what the motor has) will in fact promote wear to said bushings (usually egg shaping the hole) as the steel shaft of the rotor dries off and gets to tearing at the much softer bushing material and the fan blade part starts to show its inherant imbalance. Silicone or lithium based spray lubes used after cleaning with WD-40, sure. Not what it is, not what it's made from, not what it's intended for. However, if you want to try, here's some info about removing just the lower half of the heater unit.Įxpect it to lubricate? Never gonna happen. The shop manual's instructions have you remove the center console & the dashboard. If you find that the fan is seized then it'll have to come out for repairs/replacement. If that ground becomes iffy the fan won't work. The ground wire connects to the underside of the dashboard which then connects to the body. Since they could be 25 years old they deserve to be retired.Ĭheck that the fan is getting electrical input - there are two connections on the left side and a ground wire way in the back (firewall side). The bullet style fuses in our Spiders are known to look OK but not actually work properly. It is common for the fan motor to seize because it sits at the very bottom of the heater unit where water or coolant leaks rust the bearings.Īlso remove the fuses, clean the contacts & consider replacing them with new ones. ![]() Make sure the fan is able to move - you can reach in through one of the foot well openings and try to make it spin. ![]()
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